Pulling Rules

Mid Mo Lawn Mower Derby Rules

STOCK

  1. Mower motor must be no bigger than 25hp.
  2. Driver must wear helmet, closed toed shoes, and pants.
  3. Tires must be lawn turf tires: No cleats allowed. Cut turf tires are allowed.
  4. Battery must be securely mounted.
  5. Fuel Tank must be securely mounted and not leaking fuel if running. Any fuel besides gas must run fuel additive to se flam in the event of Fire.
  6. Only added metal allowed is leg guards and safety hoop. No front or rear bumpers allowed.
  7. Mower must have hood and fenders.
  8. Mower must have leg guards made of steel – 1″ inch minimum square tube or 2″ minimum angle iron with a minimum of 2 (two) uprights having no more than 12″ space between them. If gap is larger than 12″, must add additional upright. Sheet metal is an acceptable filler between uprights, but it must be at least 3/16ths” thick. Leg guards can attach in 3 (three) spots on the frame no more than 3″ attached at each mounting point. Cage tubing cannot exceed 3″x3″. Three belly bars will be allowed on the cage under mower. Top of cage must be a minimum of 6″ above where the foot sits, cage must be no wider than 3″ past fenders or 42″ in width. Cage must not extend forward past the rear of the front tires or rearward past the front of the tire.
  9. Safety hoop allowed with a 3″x3″ maximum tube size. Hoop may not attach to rear fenders and may not extend past the front of the tire.
  10. Mower must be belt driven, no chain or shaft drive allowed.
  11. Rear end brace permitted; must be bolted on and attach only to the trans axle.
  12. Mower must have red or painted red kill switch.
  13. Mower must have working clutch.
  14. Frame may be repaired 1(one) time, replacement section may be added with the section of the same frame and may not be overlapped more than 1″
  15. Cage to protect components is permitted, but be bolted to the engine only and cannot exceed 3″ outside of the hood.

DLS DEMOLITION DERBY RULES:
Available on DLS Promotions Facebook Page

OUT OF FIELD TRACTOR PULL RULES:
WarrenCountyFairgrounds.com/rules

Xcaliber Rules:
http://www.propulling.com/downloads/get.aspx?i=925959

Out of Field Pull Rules and Regulations

Warren County Fair – Out of Field Tractor Pull

Committee: Everett Hurley (636) 297-4169

Note: Absolutely no unauthorized personnel will be allowed on the track. Only those with proper identification will be allowed on the track.

Admission: Up to two people that are in the vehicle hauling the tractor will be granted admittance. Everyone else will be required to pay full admission price – $15.00.

 

Rules and Regulations

  1. Contest will be limited to FIELD CLASS TRACTORS ONLY. No tire chains, rear dual or four-wheel drives allowed. No cut or sharpened tires allowed. WHEELIE BARS ARE OPTIONAL.

  2. Classes:

ALL TRACTORS MAY ENTER UP TO 2 CLASSES ONLY AND A TRACTOR CAN ONLY BE ENTERED ONCE PER CLASS.

YOU CAN PULL IN A COMBINATION OF 2 MPH CLASSES, OR 2 OPEN CLASSES, OR 1 MPH CLASS AND 1 OPEN CLASS.

AN ENTRY FEE OF $20.00 PER CLASS WILL BE CHARGED.

MPH Classes:

0 – 4,500 lb 12.4 x 38 tires – 5 MPH

4,501 – 6,000 lb 16.9 x 38 tires – 5 MPH

6,001 – 8,000 lb 18.4 x 38 tires – 5 MPH

8,001 – 10,000 lb 20.8 x 38 tires – 6 MPH

10,001 – 12,000 lb 20.8 x 42 tires – 8 MPH

12,001 – 15,000 lb 20.8 x 42 tires – 8 MPH

You will be allowed the first 100’ to control your speed. If your speed exceeds the specified MPH for the class after 100’, your pull stops IMMEDIATELY, and you are DISQUALIFIED from the class. There will be no refund of entry if disqualified.

Open Classes:

0 – 9,000 lb 20.8 x 38 tires or smaller

9,001 – 11,000 lb 20.8 x 42 tires

11,001 – 13,000 lb 20.8 x 42 tires

 

PLEASE NOTE: THE OPEN CLASSES ARE FOR FIELD TRACTORS ONLY.

 

For all classes:

  • Weight of the tractor includes the driver.

  • Tires must be of proper size or the equivalent.

    • Formula to determine equivalent: (Width x 2) + diameter.

  1. Drawbar height limit will be 21 inches. Minimum length of the drawbar will be 20 inches from the center of the axel. All Tractors must use clevis or hitch with a 3.75” x 3” opening that allows the hook to swing free.

  2. Rear tractor weights cannot interfere with hooking of sled.

  3. Fuel: One fuel only – gas, LP, or diesel.

  4. All tractors will weigh before they hook for verification of weight only. If you are unsure of the weight, please weigh per regulation 19. You will not have time to adjust your weight at the time of your pull.

  5. All tractors will have a tachometer PTO check with a 10% variance allowed to be checked at the time of final weigh.

  6. All hand throttles and/or foot throttles may be checked for proper operation by judges at their discretion.

  7. Removal of items such as hoods and other items which may create a safety hazard will not be allowed.

  8. All weights must be bolted or securely fastened to the tractor. Any loss of weights will result in disqualification. Any front-end weight cannot extend more than 24 inches in front of the factory hood of the tractor.

  9. No rain caps allowed on exhaust pipes.

  10. Fan belts must be connected and running. Air intakes must be through a standard air cleaner.

  11. Participants under the age of 18 will require signed consent from parent/guardian.

  12. No persons will be allowed in the arena other than the tractor operators and contest officials.

  13. The pull is ended when:

    1. Forward motion of tractor stops.

    2. Driver does not remain seated.

    3. Tractor or sled does not stay within the pulling strip or tractor hitch breaks.

    4. Weight or something else falls from the tractor.

  1. Unsportsmanlike conduct before, during, or after the tractor pull will mean disqualification, also forfeiture of entry fee, plus prize money won.

  2. First hitched of each class has the choice of repull. If repulling, you must tell the judges before unhooking from the sled. Last pull is measured. If the sled is not readjusted before the 4th tractor pulls in each class, the class will be official.

  3. Entry Fee is $20.00

1st Place: $100.00 + trophy

2nd Place: $75.00 + Trophy

3rd Place: $50.00

  1. Weigh in time will begin at 4:00 pm and closes at 6:00 pm.

  2. Caution should be exercised at all times. Failure to comply with safety procedures may result in disqualification.

  3. All disabled tractors must be removed from the track prior to the next tractor pulling. The committee will use whatever means deemed necessary to remove the tractor.

  4. All protests must be made before the final weight check. Protest can only be made by a contestant in the same weight class. Tractors will be identified by class and pull order.

  5. The Tractor Pull Committee will have the final decision on all questions, disputes, hardship cases, etc. that may develop.

DERBY RULES

2025 Van/SUV General Rules and Regulations

2025 VANS/SUV RULES
General Rules & Regulations

1. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
2. You must be 16 years old to ride or drive in a car. Anyone under the age of 18 will have to have their parents’ consent. (St. Charles Co fair no one under the age of 16 will be allowed in the pits).
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, long pants & approved footwear
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meetings are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band, you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event
6. There is a $250 protest fee, must be paid by a driver for the main event. The driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature to protest. If the car is found illegal the car will be disqualified.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show
8. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
9. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
10. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
11. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe
12. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason
13. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show daylight.
14. The car qualifies, not the driver. During the event if a driver is unable to compete and has a replacement, please see driver’s table for the driver to get signed up and fill out proper paperwork. If the original driver gets disqualified the car may not continue to compete.
15. All cars must be checked in and in the inspection line a minimum of 2 hours prior to showtime start. This will be strictly enforced.

Car Preparation

1. . No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. May be any van or suv with 112.9 wheelbase or less with 4 cylinders or v6 only. UNIBODY SUV ONLY!! FWD/AWD
3. All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in the rules.
4. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered max of 2 batteries
6. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed
7. Remove all air bags!!
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

1. NO creasing enhancements, sheet metal or frame shaping
2. Hoods must have a 12” hole in them, they can be fastened down in 4 places. 2 can be all thread as stated below on body mounts. Other 2 can be #9 wire. They can all be #9 if you choose
3. Body mounts must remain stock, if they are broken or rusted out you can fix them with a single piece of #9 wire. EXCEPTION: you may replace the front two body mount bolts with 5/8” all thread with (�� 3” washers and 4 nuts. Bottom nut and washer must be inside the frame.
4. Doors may be chained or wired shut. You may weld the drivers door for safety, same for passenger front door if you have a rider or welded shut. If you choose to weld 6” max weld on all passenger doors. Driver and Passenger front doors may be welded solid or you can run a door skin on front doors only must be 1/8” thick and can only run 3” past the front door seam and 3” past the rear front door seam
5. front windshield from the roof to the fire wall is required to have chain or #9 wire
6. Cage-You may have a 4 point cage only 60” in length with on 2”x3” down bar per side welded to sheet metal only! If you choose not to have a cage you must have a driver door bar. And must have a back seat bar at least from door to door. Halos bars are to be attached to the back seat bar. No gas tank protectors!
7. Gas tanks can be moved to the back seat, but don’t have to if it in front of the rear axle.
8. Must run factory pedals, shifters, brakes, and steering for that year make and model of van
9. Bumpers- any factory loaded bumper of your choice must be loaded on the inside, or a 4”x4” ¼” flat tubing (no homemade points) as a front bumper. You may weld the stock brackets for that car or the bumper to the frame 4” on the frame from the back of the bumper. Also you can weld (4) 1” welds to the back of the bumper
• Shocks may be collapsed and welded, but must remain is stock location and must extend 1” in front of the core support
• Or you may shorten to 1” of the core support and hard nose it with no shocks
10. Tires-Any tires you want to run is fine but must be on a factory steel or aluminum wheel. If you need to weld a center in can run a 7” center no full centers or reinforcing
11. All steering and suspension must remain stock for that year make and model you are running.
12. No carb engines allowed.
13. Trans mount may be bolted or welded in solid with a 2”x3”x ¼” 6” long but must be in factory location

#9 Wire

1. PRE-RAN AND FRESH CARS WILL ALSO BE ALLOWED A TOTAL OF (4) SPOTS OF 9 GA MAXIMUM WIRE FROM THE INSIDE FRONT DOOR SEAM TO THE REAR BUMPER OF THE CAR. THIS WIRE MUST BE A MAXIMUM OF 4 LOOPS AND ONLY ATTACHED OR AROUND THE FRAME RAILS AND BODY SHEETMETAL. NO ATTACHING TO THE CAGE, ANY DRIVELINE COMPONENTS, OR ACCESSORY ITEMS IN THE CAR. WIRE MUST GO AROUND FRAME OR THROUGH A FACTORY FRAME HOLE. NO WELDING OF THIS WIRE OR NO WELDING ADDITIONAL WASHERS OR MATERIAL ON FRAME FOR RUNNING WIRE

Repair Plates

1. You will be allowed 2 plates on fresh cars and 2 more on pre ran for a total of 4 plates!
2. Plate size will be 6”x6”x1/8”
3. Repair plates can only be attached to the frame can be on multiple sides of the frame
4. Repair plates can not tie unibody frame and k frame together in any way
5. All plates MUST have a ½” hole for inspection
6. ½” wide single pass weld bead around the perimeter of the plate only
7. 1” gap between plates and welds
8. No over lapping plates
9. CALL OR TEXT if you have any other questions Cody (636)290-1423

 

2025 Compact/Youth (11-15) Rules

2025 COMPACT/YOUTH (11-15) RULES
General Rules & Regulations

1. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
2. You must be 16 years old to ride or drive in a car. Anyone under the age of 18 will have to have their parents’ consent. (St. Charles Co fair no one under the age of 16 will be allowed in the pits).
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, long pants & approved footwear
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meetings are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band, you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event
6. There is a $250 protest fee, must be paid by a driver for the main event. The driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature to protest. If the car is found illegal the car will be disqualified.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show
8. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
9. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
10. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
11. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe
12. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason
13. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show daylight.
14. The car qualifies, not the driver. During the event if a driver is unable to compete and has a replacement, please see driver’s table for the driver to get signed up and fill out proper paperwork. If the original driver gets disqualified the car may not continue to compete.
15. All cars must be checked in and in the inspection line a minimum of 2 hours prior to showtime start. This will be strictly enforced.

Car Preparation

1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. Must be 80 & newer car.
3. 108” max factory wheelbase on FWD and 105” wheelbase on RWD cars. Leave vin tag to verify make/model/year. 4- and 6-cylinder engines only. NO SUVs or Trucks.
4. All body panels, frames, and sheet metal must remain factory for that year, make, and model car. Example no swapping trunks, doors, hoods, core support, etc.
5. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered max of 2 batteries
7. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

1. Driver and passenger FRONT doors may be welded solid with 3” wide 1/8” thick material. Or you can run a door skin on front doors only must be 1/8” thick and can only run 3” past the front door seam and 3” past the rear front door seam
2. All other passenger doors may be welded with (5) 3”x 5”x 1/8” thick material anywhere on each door but 5 max per door.
3. Do not weld or reweld any frame or unibody seams on the car. Period!
4. K frame must remain stock for the make, model, and year car you are running. Do not replace bolts unless specified in these rules
5. No aftermarket fabricated engine reinforcements aloud on engine. This means no carb protectors, reinforced engine mounts, or any other “protector” for the engine or transmission. DO NOT PUSH THIS RULE!

Bumper

You will be allowed one of the two options below for bumper. ONE OPTION NOT BOTH
OPTION 1: You may use any factory car automotive bumper on the front of your car. Bumper may be reinforced inside the factory skin only. Do not change the shape or appearance of the bumper when reinforcing. All reinforcements must be inside the chrome skin and backing material.
OPTION 2: You may build a fabricated bumper to the following guidelines only. Bumper must be no taller than 6”. Bumper cannot have a point larger than 4”, point must be in the center of the bumper and span a minimum of 32” across the front of the bumper. Point will be measured from the front flat part of the bumper.
NO SHARP EDGES ON THE BUMPER. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.
****you must use one of the two following options above****
Rear Bumper any rear factory bumper’s of a car legal for this class can be welded to the car with no added metal or filler metal ( use the welder only) or bolted with 2 bolts per side up to 1/2 “ diameter bolts, not to exceed 6” long.

Bumper Mounting

Use one of the following options not both
OPTION 1: Bumper may be welded solid to the end of the frame with a MAXIMUM plate size of 5”x5”x1/4” thick welded to the end of the frame to help hold bumper on. Can not be on any side, front of the frame only. Maximum of ½” wide bead single pass to weld on bumper. In addition to this plate capping the frame, you will be allowed a bumper plate on one side of the frame exterior only (1 plate per frame rail). This plate must be completely flat on the frame with no contour. Max size of plate will be 10” long by 3” tall by ¼” max thickness. This plate must be attached to the back side of bumper or bumper mounting plate on end of frame. You will not be allowed to tie a Unibody frame to the K frame with this bumper plate in any way. Max ½” wide bead to install this plate. If we cannot tell the thickness of this plate, we will make you put a hole in the plate for inspection. If you decide to do this method, you WILL NOT be allowed a bumper shock at all. You may shorten the front frame rails to a MINIMUM of 1” in front of the core support body mount bracket or 1” in front of core support on unibody cars
OPTION 2: The factory bumper shocks for that car must be used and must be bolted in the factory location for that car. You CAN NOT cut off the front frame at all. You may compress the front bumper shocks and weld to the end of the frame 1/2’’ wide bead single pass only.

Cage

1. All Cars must have a cage no exceptions. All cage material must be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also be a minimum of 12” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall. Must be a minimum of 6” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
2. You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar on the front doors only. You may weld one down bar per side from the cage to the frame vertically. Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be bolted to the roof. You may also weld a factory only steering column to the steering cage. Back of cage, including roll bar must be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s seat. No contouring cage bars excluding halo to achieve a greater distant.
3. Center bar can’t be bigger than 3” tubing and can’t strengthen the car in any way

Gas Tank Protector

1. I recommend running a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide at the back of the protector and must be centered in the vehicle. It can only be attached to the back seat bar, it must be 6” off floor and roof sheet metal and 6” from rear sheet metal. Where this isn’t present gas tank protector must remain completely in front of rear strut towers. No removing sheet metal to achieve a greater distant.
2. You can run a factory fuel cell it must be moved inside to the rear seat area tied down and fastened properly. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle. NO plastic aftermarket tanks allowed.

Steering and Suspension

1. Tie rods must be stock. A-arms, ball joints, and all other steering and suspension must remain stock, for that year, make and model car you are running on the front and the rear. No reinforcing of these components allowed.
2. You may change steering column to prevent losing steering.
3. Struts must remain stock and stock for that year, make and model car you are running.

Tires and Wheels

Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. NO foam filled drive tires for the arena shows for safety reasons. Wheel reinforcement is allowed if the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter

Hood and Front fenders

1. Hood can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 4 pieces of ¾” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 4 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) to hold hood. Pick ONE of the three options NOT ALL THREE! Hood must remain in the factory location.
2. A max of 2 pieces of threaded rod may run through the frame and replace a K member/Body mount. These threaded rods running through frame must also run thru core support. Do not remove any factory K member bushing, no sleeving threaded rods inside or outside the frame.
3. Do NOT weld any of these pieces of threaded rod
4. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard sized nuts and washers to mount these threaded rod
5. Hood washers can only be max of 4”x4”x1/4”. 2 max per threaded rod one under hood and one on top of hood
6. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt together your hood skin around cut outs
7. You must have a least 12” hole in the hood in case of a fire
8. You can leave hood on factory hinges
9. NO WELDING ON THE HOOD AT ALL!!!
10. You will be allowed a MAXIMUM of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt fenders per side. These bolts cannot be used to attach hood to the fenders
11. No doubling body panels, no welding of creases, no body or frame shaping on the interior of the car.
12. You may have a MAXIMUM of 2 bars in front of the windshield opening to protect the driver. MINIMUM of one piece of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain ( 1 loop). These bars may NOT be larger the 3” wide ¼” thick and must only be bolted to the cowl and roof. Do NOT use these to strengthen the car or you will remove then and replace with wire.

Trunk

1. Trunk can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 2 pieces of 3/4” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 2 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) required to hold trunk. Pick ONE of the three options NOT all three. Chain, wire, or rod may go thru the frame. Trunk must remain in factory location
2. Trunk washers can be a max of 4”x4”x1/4”
3. Do Not weld any of these pieces of all thread
4. Trunks may be tucked with a MAXIMUM of ONE 90-degree bend. No more than 50% of the trunk. Trunk height must remain 10” minimum measured straight up from the frame rails. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical.
5. NO welding on the trunk lid at all
6. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard size nuts and washers to mount these threaded rods
7. NO REAR WINDOW BARS AT ALL!
8. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt rear quarter panels per side. These bolts cannot be used to attach the trunk to the rear quarters
9. You must have at least a 6” hole in the trunk for inspection
10. You must leave trunk on factory hinges

#9 Wire

1. PRE-RAN AND FRESH CARS WILL ALSO BE ALLOWED A TOTAL OF (4) SPOTS OF 9 GA MAXIMUM WIRE FROM THE INSIDE FRONT DOOR SEAM TO THE REAR BUMPER OF THE CAR. THIS WIRE MUST BE A MAXIMUM OF 4 LOOPS AND ONLY ATTACHED OR AROUND THE FRAME RAILS AND BODY SHEETMETAL. NO ATTACHING TO THE CAGE, ANY DRIVELINE COMPONENTS, OR ACCESSORY ITEMS IN THE CAR. WIRE MUST GO AROUND FRAME OR THROUGH A FACTORY FRAME HOLE. NO WELDING OF THIS WIRE OR NO WELDING ADDITIONAL WASHERS OR MATERIAL ON FRAME FOR RUNNING WIRE

Repair plates and rust repair

1. You will be allowed 2 plates on fresh cars and 2 more on pre ran for a total of 4 plates!
2. Plate size will be 6”x6”x1/8”
3. Repair plates can only be attached to the frame can be on multiple sides of the frame
4. Repair plates can not tie unibody frame and k frame together in any way
5. All plates MUST have a ½” hole for inspection
6. ½” wide single pass weld bead around the perimeter of the plate only
7. 1” gap between plates and welds
8. No over lapping plates
9. CALL OR TEXT before doing any rust repair!!!!! Cody (636)290-1423

2025 Big Stock Car Rules

2025 STOCK BIG CAR RULES
General Rules & Regulations

1. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
2. You must be 16 years old to ride or drive in a car. Anyone under the age of 18 will have to have their parents’ consent. (St. Charles Co fair no one under the age of 16 will be allowed in the pits).
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, long pants & approved footwear.
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meeting are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event
6. There is a $250 protest fee, must be paid by a driver in the main event. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found illegal the car will be disqualified.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
8. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
9. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
10. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
11. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
12. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
13. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light.
14. Car qualifies, not the driver. During the event if a driver is unable to compete and has a replacement, please see the driver’s table for the driver to get signed up and fill out proper paperwork. If the original driver gets disqualified the car may not continue to compete.
15. All cars must be checked in and in the inspection line a minimum of 2 hours prior to showtime start. This will be strictly enforced.

Car Preparation

1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. Must be 80 & newer car full size car with a wheelbase of at least 113” or more.
3. NO 4X4, ambulances, hearses, trucks, or limousines. No manipulating a wagon roof to create a sedan on a fresh car.
4. All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in the rules.
5. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered max of 2 batteries.
7. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

1. Driver and passenger FRONT doors may be welded solid with 3” wide 1/8” thick material. Or you can run a door skin on front doors only must be 1/8” thick and can only run 3” past the front door seam and 3” past the rear front door seam
2. All other passenger doors may be welded with (5) 3”x 5”x 1/8” thick material anywhere on each door but 5 max per door.
3. Do not weld or reweld any frame or unibody seams on the car. Period!
4. K frame must remain stock for the make, model, and year car you are running. Do not replace bolts unless specified in these rules.

Bumper

You will be allowed one of the two options below for bumper. ONE OPTION NOT BOTH!
OPTION 1: You may use any factory car automotive bumper on the front of your car. Bumper may be reinforced inside the factory skin only. Do not change the shape or appearance of the bumper when reinforcing. All reinforcements must be inside the chrome skin and backing material.
OPTION 2: You may build a fabricated bumper to the following guidelines only. Bumper must be no taller than 6”. Bumper cannot have a point larger than 4”, point must be in the center of the bumper and span a minimum of 32” across the front of the bumper. Point will be measured from the front flat part of the bumper. Total depth of bumper not to exceed 10” from the front of the frame rails. NO SHARP EDGES ON THE BUMPER. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.
LEAVE THE REAR BUMPER AND BRACKETS FACTORY. Do not even touch the rear bumper. If you want to remove it that’s fine but do not replace it other than with what came on that make, model and year car only!!
****you must use one of the two following options above****

Bumper Mounting

Use one of the following options below NOT BOTH

OPTION 1: Bumper may be welded solid to the end of the frame with a MAXIMUM plate size of 5”x5”x1/4” thick welded to the end of the frame to help hold bumper on. This plate must be on the end of the frame not the side. Maximum of ½” wide bead single pass to weld on bumper. In addition to this plate capping the frame, you will be allowed a bumper plate on one side of the frame exterior only (1 plate per frame rail). This plate must be completely flat on the frame with no contour. Max size of plate will be 10” long by 3” tall by ¼” max thickness. This plate must be attached to the back side of bumper or bumper mounting plate on end of frame. You will not be allowed to tie a Unibody frame to the K frame with this bumper plate in any way. Max ½” wide bead to install this plate. If we cannot tell the thickness of this plate, we will make you put a hole in the plate for inspection. If you decide to do this method, you WILL NOT be allowed a bumper shock at all. You may shorten the front frame rails to a MINIMUM of 1” in front of the core support body mount bracket or 1” in front of core support on unibody cars. If your car does not have this MINIMUM measurement of 1” in front of the core support factory, DO NOT SHORTEN RAILS AT ALL!

OPTION 2: The factory bumper shocks for that car must be used and must be bolted in the factory location for that car. You CAN NOT cut off the front frame at all. You may compress the front bumper shocks and weld to the end of the frame 1/2’’ wide bead single pass only.

Cage

1. All Cars must have a cage no exceptions. All cage material must be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also be a minimum of 12” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall. Must be a minimum of 6” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
2. You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar on the front doors only. You may weld one down bar per side from the cage to the floor or frame vertically. Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be bolted to the roof (for a max of 4 connection points to floor or frame). You may also weld a factory only steering column to the cage. Back of cage, including roll bar has to be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s seat. No contouring cages bars excluding the halo to achieve a greater distant.
3. Center bar can’t be bigger than 3” tubing and can’t strengthen the car in any way

Gas Tank Protector

1. I recommend running a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide at back of protector and must be centered in the vehicle. It can only be attached to the back seat bar; it must be 6” off floor and roof sheet metal and 6” from rear sheet metal. Where this isn’t present gas tank protector must remain completely in front of rear package tray. No removing sheet metal to achieve a greater distant.
2. You can run factory fuel cell it must be moved inside to rear seat area tied down and fastened properly. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle. NO plastic aftermarket tanks allowed.

Steering and Suspension

1. Tie rods must be stock. A-arms, ball joints, and all other steering and suspension must remain stock to the year, make and model car you are running. With no modifications or manipulating.
2. You may change steering column to prevent losing steering.
3. Struts must remain stock and stock for that year, make and model car you are running.
4. 03 and newer only will be allowed a max 2” tall spacer on the factory strut only
5. 1980-2002 you will be allowed to bolt your upper a arm down with one ½” bolt per side. No welding of the bolt. Must use a store bought ½” washer.

Drivetrain

1. Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2″ thick spacers to raise the engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2″ flat plate only (example SBC in Caddy, Mopar)
2. No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock crossmembers only. No welding You may weld rear end gears only.
Rear end swaps allowed: no bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31 spline, Ford, GM or Mopar Clarification: All must be factory axles (cast flanges) and rear ends, must be a direct bolt-in, NO fabricating or welding allowed of axles or rear end (inside or outside) so no 9-inch rear ends or 8 lugs.
3. Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed, gas pedals, Clarification: None may strengthen car.
4. Lower engine cradles only. No pulley protectors, skid plates, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
5. No tranny protectors no aftermarket cases or tails, stock mounting only, stock crossmembers
only, or a straight piece of 2x2x1/4 in factory location. May use 2x2x1/4 angle iron 4”long for
mounting. An ultra bell is the only modification allowed to the transmission
6. Slider drive shafts are allowed.

Tires and wheels

Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. NO foam filled drive tires for the arena shows for safety reasons. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter.

Body

1. No sedagons, NO creasing enhancements, NO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming, or folding back.
2. Body mounts and spacers must remain stock and in factory location. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM Exception: You may replace two front body mounts.

Frames

1. NO welding on frames allowed.
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock. ZERO aftermarket parts
3. You may use 2 twists in spring spacers per side (store bought, no homemade)

Hood and Front fenders

1. Hood can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 4 pieces of ¾” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 4 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) to hold hood. Pick ONE of the three options NOT ALL THREE! Hood must remain in factory location.
2. A max of 2 pieces of threaded rod may run through the frame and replace a K member/Body mount. These threaded rods running through frame must also run thru core support.
3. Do NOT weld any of these pieces of threaded rod.
4. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard sized nuts and washers to mount each of these threaded rods.
5. Hood washers can only be max of 4”x4”x1/4”.
6. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt together your hood skin around cut outs.
7. You must have at least 12” hole in the hood in case of a fire.
8. You can leave hood on factory hinges.
9. NO WELDING ON THE HOOD AT ALL!!!
10. You will be allowed a MAXIMUM of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt fenders per side. These bolts cannot be used to attach hood to the fenders.
11. No creasing or beating enhancements of the fenders or hood.
12. You may have a MAXIMUM of 2 bars in front of the windshield opening to protect the driver. MINIMUM of one piece of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop). These bars may NOT be larger the 3” wide ¼” thick and must only be bolted to the cowl and roof. Do NOT use these to strengthen the car or you will remove then and replace with wire.

Trunk

1. Trunk can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 2 pieces of 3/4” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 2 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) required to hold trunk. Pick ONE of the three options, NOT all three. Chain, wire, or rod may go through the frame. Trunks must remain in the factory location.
2. Trunk washers can be a max of 4”x4”x1/4”.
3. Do Not weld any of these pieces of all thread.
4. Trunks may be tucked with a MAXIMUM of ONE 90-degree bend. NO dishing/beating, shaping of the trunk otherwise. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical with NO creasing enhancements.
5. NO welding on the trunk lid at all.
6. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard size nuts and washers to mount each of these threaded rods.
7. NO REAR WINDOW BARS AT ALL!
8. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt rear quarter panels per side. These bolts cannot be used to attach the trunk to the rear quarters.
9. You must have at least a 6” hole in the trunk for inspection.
10. You must leave trunk on factory hinges.

#9 Wire

1. PRE-RAN AND FRESH CARS WILL ALSO BE ALLOWED A TOTAL OF (4) SPOTS OF 9 GA MAXIMUM WIRE FROM THE INSIDE FRONT DOOR SEAM TO THE REAR BUMPER OF THE CAR. THIS WIRE MUST BE A MAXIMUM OF 4 LOOPS AND ONLY ATTACHED OR AROUND THE FRAME RAILS AND BODY SHEETMETAL. NO ATTACHING TO THE CAGE, ANY DRIVELINE COMPONENTS, OR ACCESSORY ITEMS IN THE CAR. WIRE MUST GO AROUND FRAME OR THROUGH A FACTORY FRAME HOLE. NO WELDING OF THIS WIRE OR NO WELDING ADDITIONAL WASHERS OR MATERIAL ON FRAME FOR RUNNING WIRE

Repair Plates and Rust Repair

1. You will be allowed 2 plates on fresh cars and 2 more on pre ran for a total of 4 plates!
2. Plate size will be 6” x 6” x 1/8”.
3. Repair plates can only be attached to the frame can be on multiple sides of the frame
4. All plates MUST have a ½” hole for inspection.
5. ½” wide single pass weld bead around the perimeter of the plate only.
6. 1” gap between plates and welds.
7. No overlapping plates.
8. CALL OR TEXT before doing any rust repair!!!!! Cody (636)290-1423

/rules

2025 Street Stock Rules

2025 STREET STOCK RULES
General Rules & Regulations

1. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
2. You must be 16 years old to ride or drive in a car. Anyone under the age of 18 will have to have a parent’s consent (St. Charles Co fair no one under the age of 16 will be allowed in the pits).
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, long pants & approved footwear.
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. The driver’s meeting are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before or during the event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band, you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event
6. There is a $250 protest fee, must be paid by a driver for the main event. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found illegal the car will be disqualified and forfeit their winnings. If the car is found legal the driver will receive the protest fee.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
8. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
9. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
10. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
11. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as the car is deemed safe.
12. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
13. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show daylight.
14. The car qualifies, not the driver. During the event if a driver is unable to compete and has a replacement, please see the driver’s table for the driver to get signed up and fill out proper paperwork. If the original driver gets disqualified the car may not continue to compete.
15. All cars must be checked in and in the inspection line a minimum of 2 HOURS PRIOR to showtime start. This will be strictly enforced.

Car Preparation

1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. If caught doing so you will be required to remove all paint. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions:
NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4×4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc.… If you have a question regarding a car, please call.
3. All cars must be stocked unless a modification is stated in the rules.
4. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from the car before arriving at the derby.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission tunnel. They must be properly secured and covered with a max of 2 batteries.
6. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
7. All cars must have working brakes before coming for inspection.
8. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have a minimum of 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Bumpers

1. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less- ** No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. Weld may be no larger than ½” wide to weld on these brackets. No brackets inside the frame at all!!
2. Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use 1- 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed but no more than 90 degrees on a single bend and it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule, you will cut it. Weld may be no larger than ½” wide to weld on these plates.
3. Manufactured bumpers are allowed. Homemade front bumpers are permitted. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper, it must be no larger than a factory bumper (Chrysler pointy has a 14” point) and must follow the contour of a factory bumper. If using a factory bumper it may be loaded or stuffed full are allowed and only bumpers that came stock on cars may be used.
4. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off.
5. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion, except on a 71-76 GM Wagon Rear bumper it may be welded to the body if still in factory location. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame (whichever is lowest). Bumpers must be in stock location.
6. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front
of the radiator.
7. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as the front bumper. Rear tubing bumpers are aloud. Must follow the homemade bumper rules above.
Frame shortening
1. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. Your 1” threaded rod must pass through the factory hole without modification. If it is a weld on the mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper/ front of the frame to the front of the
spring pocket.

Frame Welding

1. If you choose to frame weld you must follow these guidelines listed below.
– You will be allowed to weld your factory exterior TOP frame seam from the front of the frame to the factory front A-arm bracket weld. This weld can only be ½” wide by ¼” tall single pass only. Do not weld any interior frame seams.
– You will be allowed an additional 14” of factory exterior only frame seam welding. This will allow Fords to cut and tilt their frame and cars to reweld missed factory frame seams typical on older cars. These welds can only be ½” wide by ¼” tall single pass only. Do not weld any interior frame seams.
– Fords will be allowed to use this 14” of additional welding to cut the factory frame welds and tilt the frame in ONE direction only. This may only be done by cutting the tabs and seams where the boxes meet the front frame section. These welds can only be ½” wide by ¼” tall single pass only. Do not weld any interior frame seams.
– No cutting or rewelding of the frame seams where the boxes meet the side belly rails ON ANY CAR.
– 03 AND UP FORDS WILL NOT BE ALOUD ANY FRAME SEAM WELDING AT ALL, ONLY COLD BENDING WILL BE ALLOWED IN THE SIDE RAILS.
– NO PRESSURING, STRETCHING, TILTING, OR MANIPULATING THE FRAME UNLESS WHATS STATED UP ABOVE. IF YOU ARE CAUGHT DOING SO IT IS UP TO THE OFFICIALS ON HOW TO FIX.
– If you have to re-stub your frame do so on a factory frame seam only that you are allowed to weld or in the side belly rails. This will be counted as your 14” of additional welding and be sure to follow frame rules above. Do not overlap your new frame section onto the old frame, butt-weld only with no added materials. You will only be allowed to restub with the same make, model, and year platform of the car you are running. DO NOT CHANGE THE SHAPE, LENGTH, OR CONTOUR OF FRAME WHEN RESTUBBING.

Front Suspension

1. On 03 and newer you must use the factory rack and pinion and must use factory aluminum cradle. Aluminum cradle may be reinforced with aftermarket steel bolt on cradle capping the top and side of the aluminum cradle, No added metal on the bottom of the factory cradle. The factory rack must still be mounted to the factory aluminum cradle only. The aftermarket steel cap cradle must be a minimum of ½” away from factory frame rails, stay in between the frame rails and cannot extend on top of the factory frame rails, and cannot be welded or attached to the factory frame rails. Call if you don’t understand engine mounts must be mounted to this added steel cradle only.
2. You may swap A arms and spindles with factory OEM parts aloud for the class you are running.
3. Ball Joints – Aftermarket ball joints will be allowed but must bolt in like factory. No welding on ball joints.
4. Tie rods- Aftermarket tie rods will be allowed. Must use a factory OEM tire rod end. Tie rod tubes may be homemade or reinforced. NO Heim joints or bolts for ends.
5. Upper and lower A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 1/2” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick straps per side. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. You will be allowed 4 straps total per car. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets.
6. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
7. The steering box and Pitman arm must remain stock or OEM stock replacement. NO adapter plates for mounting different boxes will be allowed. NO hydro steering allowed.
8. Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for a car that is legal in the class you are running.
9. Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles.
10. Spindles – must be stock for a passenger car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.

Rear Suspension

Leaf Spring Cars

1. Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class. No adding additional leaf springs to the stack. Main Leaf spring must be the top spring in the leaf pack and original to the car you are running or same width, thickness, and length. Leaf pack must have a minimum stagger of 2” in front and rear. No welding or homemade leaf springs allowed. Leaf pack must have a minimum of a 2” arch and in the opposite direction of the frame hump. No DE arching or flat stacking aloud.
You may add 2 additional homemade clamps per side 2x4x1/4” thick. You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted.

Coil Spring Cars

1. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear coil springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. No all-thread shocks.

Rear-Ends

1. Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8-lug rear end.
2. You can tilt the rear end if you wish.
3. Welded or Posi-track highly recommended.
4. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing. Axle savers are okay. If running a Pinion brake protector Do not use this as a reinforcement for the car. This will be left up to the official’s decision.
5. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion are allowed. Must be a watt’s conversion available like Toast, NLR, Killer OR homemade in similar fashion. This will be left up to the official’s decision.

Tires

1. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. NO foam filled drive tires for the arena shows for safety reasons. Wheel reinforcement is allowed if the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.

Motor

1. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. If running a Cadillac or Chrysler motor may be slide back to allow clearance.
2. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
3. Lower Cradles are allowed but must be attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing, attached to the frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
4. NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! You are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed.
5. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” around header ONLY and can only attach to intake bolts.
6. Lower cradle can only be attached to engine block and cylinder heads. DO NOT attach lower cradle to the bell housing in any way. Front plates may extend upwards to bolt to cylinder heads but may not reinforce the car in any way.
7. No Valve cover protectors, plug wire protectors, etc. allowed on the rear of the engine. If you choose to not cut out the firewall for clearance this is your decision.

Transmission

1. You may run an aftermarket steel or aluminum bell housing and steel or aluminum tail shaft housing. Bell housing may only be attached to transmission case housing and engine block.
2. You may run an aftermarket transmission/ converter such as but not limited to (Reid, FTI, ATI, JW, ROSSLER).
3. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the tail shaft cone. If running an aftermarket tail shaft, you will only be allowed to attach to crossmember with chain method and must be able to slide forwards and backwards free from obstructions. This will be highly enforced and checked carefully. Do not use engine/transmission to strengthen car. We are allowing you to run these aftermarket items to help prevent breaking and replacing hard-to-find transmissions. Do not abuse these rules or they will be changed.

Transmission Cross Member

1. You must use a factory cross member for mounting the transmission. This can be out of another car legal for the class you are running only.
OR
– You may use a straight piece of up to a 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must have a hole in the centerish for inspection or we will make you torch a hole in it.
2. Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only within reason and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on.
3. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side.
4. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.

Body Mounts

1. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 3/4” bolts and can only be 8-inches long. No adding additional body mounts.
2. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 3x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”.
3. Body mount spacers can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks, you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
4. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car, and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you must build core support spacers, you may weld it to the body or the frame mount but not both. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material and 8” long from frame mount to core support. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
5. Chrysler K-Member spacers can be replaced with steel spacers of the same thickness as factory and bolts can be replaced with up to ½” bolts mounted in factory manner. No sucking K-member tight to Unibody frame rails.

Cage

1. All cage material must be no larger than 8” OD, unless specified for specific rule smaller. All cage material must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld 4 down bars from the cage to the frame must be straight up and down on the floor to protect batteries and your feet.
These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3” material. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or top of frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars including roll over may be a max length of 66 inches long. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5″ plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2×3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.

Gas Tank Protector

1. You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must be a full 1 inch away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. Do not remove speaker deck the bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.

Body Shaping

1. The body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk, or inside the engine compartment at all.
2. No sheet metal panel seam welding unless specified in doors or trunks.
3. -Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. (16 ga max)
4. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame has a hole rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.

Hood and Front Clip

1. Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 8 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 8 bolts.
2. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame in 2 spots but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x 1/4” round.
3. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
4. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 5 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.

Doors

1. You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap the strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold the tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material.
2. Driver and passenger FRONT doors may be welded solid with 3” wide 1/8” thick material. Or you can run a door skin on front doors only must be 1/8” thick and can only run 3” past the front door seam and 3” past the rear front door seam
3. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
4. You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door only. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.

Trunks

1. You may weld your trunk lid shut in 6 spots using up to 3” x 5”x1/8” strap on the factory seam or 6 inches on 6 inches off not both.
2. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. The rear of trunk lid must be a minimum of 10” off the floor measured at the rear body mount location. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical on fresh cars.
3. (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
4. GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
5. You will be required to have at least one 8” round or square hole for inspection. If you do not, we will require it at inspection.

Windshield Bar and Firewall

1. DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!! Window Bar- For safety, all calls must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.

Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers and Transmission Coolers:

1. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a metal boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. The fuel line must be secured and fastened properly and kept away from the exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine oil and Transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount. These additional items may only be mounted to the floor or cage not both. If they are mounted to the cage, they must follow all cage rules.

Radiators

1. For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. You may use a factory condenser or a radiator guard.
2. If you choose to run a radiator guard it has to meet these requirements. 1/8” thick no wider then 36” wide, centered in the core support. Can ONLY mount to the core support. Can be welded in 6 spots 1” welds or bolted in 6 spots with 3/8” bolts. It can not exceed the height of the core support, must be flat. No contouring or shaping to the guard.

#9 Wire

1. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
2. PRE-RAN AND FRESH CARS WILL ALSO BE ALLOWED A TOTAL OF (4) SPOTS OF 9 GA MAXIMUM WIRE FROM THE INSIDE FRONT DOOR SEAM TO THE REAR BUMPER OF THE CAR. THIS WIRE MUST BE A MAXIMUM OF 4 LOOPS AND ONLY ATTACHED OR AROUND THE FRAME RAILS AND BODY SHEETMETAL. NO ATTACHING TO THE CAGE, ANY DRIVELINE COMPONENTS, OR ACCESSORY ITEMS IN THE CAR. WIRE MUST GO AROUND FRAME OR THROUGH A FACTORY FRAME HOLE. NO WELDING OF THIS WIRE OR NO WELDING ADDITIONAL WASHERS OR MATERIAL ON FRAME FOR RUNNING WIRE

Repair Plates and Rust Repair

1. You will be allowed 4 plates on fresh cars and 4 more on pre ran for a total of 8 plates!!
2. Plate size will be 6”x6”x1/8”.
3. Repair plates can only be attached to the frame but can be on multiple sides of the frame.
4. All plates MUST have a ½” hole for inspection.
5. ½” wide single pass weld bead around the perimeter of the plate only.
6. 1” gap between plates and welds.
7. No overlapping plates.
8. CALL OR TEXT before doing any rust repair!!!!! Cody (636)290-1423

Xcaliber Tractor Pull

https://www.xcaliberpullingassociation.com