DLS Promotions Rules
2026 STOCK BIG CAR RULES
General Rules & Regulations
1. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
2. You must be 16 years old to ride or drive in a car. Anyone under the age of 18 will have to have their parents’ consent. (St. Charles Co fair no one under the age of 16 will be allowed in the pits).
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, long pants, approved footwear & approved fire jackets are required this year!
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meeting are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event
6. There is a $250 protest fee, must be paid by a driver in the main event. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found illegal the car will be disqualified.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
8. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That
is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
9. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVER’S DOOR!!
10. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
11. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
12. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
13. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light.
14. Car qualifies, not the driver. During the event if a driver is unable to compete and has a replacement, please see the driver’s table for the driver to get signed up and fill out proper paperwork. If the original driver gets disqualified the car may not continue to compete.
15. All cars must be checked in and passed inspection 30 minutes before the first heat starts! Meaning if the show starts at 7pm you have to have a stick and passed tech by6:30pm no expectation! If you don’t have a stick by 30 minutes before show time you will NOT RUN!!! This will be enforced along with a no refund policy!
Car Preparation
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. Must be 80 & newer car full size car with a wheelbase of at least 113” or more.
3. NO 4X4, ambulances, hearses, trucks, or limousines. No manipulating a wagon roof to create a sedan on a fresh car.
4. All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in the rules.
5. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
6. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered max of 2 batteries.
7. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof
sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.
Car building
1. Driver and passenger FRONT doors may be welded solid with 3” wide 1/8” thick material.
Or you can run a door skin on front doors only must be 1/8” thick and can only run 3” past
the front door seam and 3” past the rear front door seam
2. All other passenger doors may be welded with (5) 3”x 5”x 1/8” thick material anywhere on
each door but 5 max per door.
3. Do not weld or reweld any frame or unibody seams on the car. Period!
4. K frame must remain stock for the make, model, and year car you are running. Do not replace bolts unless specified in these rules.
Bumper
You will be allowed one of the two options below for bumper. ONE OPTION NOT BOTH!
OPTION 1: You may use any factory car automotive bumper on the front of your car.
Bumper may be reinforced inside the factory skin only. Do not change the shape or
appearance of the bumper when reinforcing. All reinforcements must be inside the chrome
skin and backing material.
OPTION 2: You may build a fabricated bumper to the following guidelines only. Bumper must be no taller than 6”. Bumper cannot have a point larger than 4”, point must be in the center of the bumper and span a minimum of 32” across the front of the bumper. Point will be measured from the front flat part of the bumper. Total depth of bumper not to exceed 10” from the front of the frame rails.
NO SHARP EDGES ON THE BUMPER. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.
LEAVE THE REAR BUMPER AND BRACKETS FACTORY.
Do not even touch the rear bumper. If you want to remove it that’s fine but do not replace it other than with what came on that make, model and year car only!!
****you must use one of the two following options above****
Bumper Mounting
Use one of the following options below NOT BOTH
OPTION 1: Bumper may be welded solid to the end of the frame with a MAXIMUM plate size of 5”x5”x1/4” thick welded to the end of the frame to help hold bumper on. This plate must be on the end of the frame not the side. Maximum of ½” wide bead single pass to weld on bumper. In addition to this plate capping the frame, you will be allowed a bumper plate on one side of the frame exterior only (1 plate per frame rail). This plate must be completely flat on the frame with no contour. Max size of plate will be 10” long by 3” tall by ¼” max thickness. This plate must be attached to the back side of bumper or bumper mounting plate on end of frame. You will not be allowed to tie a Unibody frame to the K frame with this bumper plate in any way. Max ½” wide bead to install this plate. If we cannot tell the thickness of this plate, we will make you put a hole in the plate for inspection.
If you decide to do this method, you WILL NOT be allowed a bumper shock at all. You may shorten the front frame rails to a MINIMUM of 1” in front of the core support body mount bracket or 1” in front of core support on unibody cars. If your car does not have this MINIMUM measurement of 1” in front of the core support factory, DO NOT SHORTEN RAILS AT ALL!
OPTION 2: The factory bumper shocks for that car must be used and must be bolted in the factory location for that car. You CAN NOT cut off the front frame at all. You may compress the front bumper shocks and weld to the end of the frame 1/2’’ wide bead single pass only.
Cage
1. All Cars must have a cage no exceptions. All cage material must be no larger than 6” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also be a minimum of 12” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall. Must be a minimum of 6” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
2. You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar on the front doors only. You may weld one down bar per side from the cage to the floor or frame vertically. Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and can only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be bolted to the roof (for a max of 4 connection points to floor or frame). You may also weld a factory only steering column to the cage. Back of cage, including roll bar has to be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s seat. No contouring cages bars excluding the halo to achieve a greater distant.
3. Center bar can’t be bigger than 3” tubing and can’t strengthen the car in any way
Gas tank protector
1. I recommend running a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide at back of protector and must be entered in the vehicle. It can only be attached to the back seat bar; it must be 6” off floor and roof sheet metal and 6” from rear sheet metal. Where this isn’t present gas tank protector must remain completely in front of rear package tray. No removing sheet metal to achieve a greater distant.
2. You can run factory fuel cell it must be moved inside to rear seat area tied down and fastened properly. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle. NO plastic aftermarket tanks allowed.
Steering and Suspension
1. Tie rods must be stock. A-arms, ball joints, and all other steering and suspension must remain stock to the year, make and model car you are running. With no modifications or manipulating.
2. You may change steering column to prevent losing steering.
3. Struts must remain stock and stock for that year, make and model car you are running.
4. 03 and newer only will be allowed a max 2” tall spacer on the factory strut only
5. 1980-2002 you will be allowed to bolt your upper a arm down with one ½” bolt per side.
No welding of the bolt. Must use a store bought ½” washer.
Drivetrain
1. Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2″ thick spacers to raise the engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2″ flat plate only (example SBC in Caddy, Mopar)
2. No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock crossmembers only. No welding You may weld rear end gears only.
Rear end swaps allowed: no bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31 spline, Ford, GM or Mopar Clarification: All must be factory axles (cast flanges) and rear ends, must be a direct bolt-in, NO fabricating or welding allowed of axles or rear end (inside or outside) so no 9-inch rear ends or 8 lugs.
3. Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed, gas pedals, Clarification: None may strengthen car.
4. Lower engine cradles only. No pulley protectors, skid plates, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
5. You may swap engines and transmissions, for example: Chevy in a Ford. All engine and transmission components must be OEM or OEM replacement parts. NO aftermarket or homemade engine, bell housing or transmission parts.
6. If you choose to run a radiator guard it has to meet these requirements. 1/8” thick no wider then 36” wide, centered in the core support. Can ONLY mount to the core support. Has to be bolted in 6 spots with 3/8” bolts. It can not exceed the height of the core support, must be flat. No contouring or shaping to the guard.
7. Slider drive shafts are allowed. Tires and wheels Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. NO foam filled drive tires for the arena shows for safety reasons. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter.
Body
1. No sedagons, NO creasing enhancements, NO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming, or folding back.
2. Body mounts and spacers must remain stock and in factory location. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM Exception: You may replace two front body mounts.
Frames
1. You are allowed to re-stub a car, it must be butt welded in the side rails only behind the factory crossmember tab. Must be with the make, model, and year frame you are running. Call for confirmation!! All other building rules still apply. NO other welding on frames allowed.
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock. ZERO aftermarket parts
3. You may use 2 twists in spring spacers per side (store bought, no homemade)
Hood and Front fenders
1. Hood can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 4 pieces of ¾” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 4 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) to hold hood. Pick ONE of the three options NOT ALL THREE! Hood must remain in factory location.
2. A max of 2 pieces of threaded rod may run through the frame and replace a K member/Body mount. These threaded rods running through frame must also run thru core support spacers. Spacers can be MAX length of 4” long and no larger then 2” tubing. No welding of this spacer at all.
3. Do NOT weld any of these pieces of threaded rod.
4. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard sized nuts and washers to mount each of these threaded rods.
5. Hood washers can only be max of 4”x4”x1/4”.
6. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt together your hood skin around cut outs.
7. You must have at least 12” hole in the hood in case of a fire.
8. You can leave hood on factory hinges.
9. NO WELDING ON THE HOOD AT ALL!!!
10. You will be allowed a MAXIMUM of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt fenders per side. These bolts cannot be used to attach hood to the fenders.
11. No creasing or beating enhancements of the fenders or hood.
12. You may have a MAXIMUM of 2 bars in front of the windshield opening to protect the driver. MINIMUM of one piece of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop). These bars may NOT be larger the 3” wide ¼” thick and must only be bolted to the cowl and roof. Do NOT use these to strengthen the car or you will remove then and replace with wire.
13. You will be allowed a factory passenger car or truck condenser. This can be mounted with four 3/8” bolts 3” long or 4 spots of 9 wire. No aftermarket sheet metal guards or expanded metal
Trunk
1. Trunk can only be attached with a MAXIMUM of 2 pieces of 3/4” max diameter threaded rod. MINIMUM of 2 pieces of 9 wire (2 loops) or 3/8” chain (1 loop) required to hold trunk. Pick ONE of the three options, NOT all three. Chain, wire, or rod may go through the frame. Trunks must remain in the factory location.
2. Trunk washers can be a max of 4”x4”x1/4”.
3. Do Not weld any of these pieces of all thread.
4. Trunks may be tucked with a MAXIMUM of ONE 90-degree bend. NO dishing/beating, shaping of the trunk otherwise. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical with NO creasing enhancements.
5. NO welding on the trunk lid at all.
6. You will be allowed a max of 4 standard size nuts and washers to mount each of these threaded rods.
7. NO REAR WINDOW BARS AT ALL!
8. You will be allowed a max of (4) 3/8” bolts to bolt rear quarter panels per side. These
bolts cannot be used to attach the trunk to the rear quarters.
9. You must have at least a 6” hole in the trunk for inspection.
10. You must leave trunk on factory hinges.
#9 Wire
1. PRE-RAN AND FRESH CARS WILL ALSO BE ALLOWED A TOTAL OF (4) SPOTS OF 9 GA MAXIMUM WIRE FROM THE INSIDE FRONT DOOR SEAM TO THE REAR BUMPER OF THE CAR. THIS WIRE MUST BE A MAXIMUM OF 4 LOOPS AND ONLY ATTACHED OR AROUND THE FRAME RAILS AND BODY SHEETMETAL. NO ATTACHING TO THE CAGE, ANY DRIVELINE COMPONENTS, OR ACCESSORY ITEMS IN THE CAR. WIRE MUST GO AROUND FRAME OR THROUGH A FACTORY FRAME HOLE. NO WELDING OF THIS WIRE OR NO WELDING ADDITIONAL WASHERS OR MATERIAL ON FRAME FOR RUNNING WIRE
Repair plates and rust repair
1. You will be allowed 2 plates on fresh cars and 2 more on pre ran for a total of 4 plates!
2. Plate size will be 6” x 6” x 1/8”.
3. Repair plates can only be attached to the frame can be on multiple sides of the frame
4. All plates MUST have a ½” hole for inspection.
5. ½” wide single pass weld bead around the perimeter of the plate only.
6. 1” gap between plates and welds.
7. No overlapping plates.
8. CALL OR TEXT before doing any rust repair!!!!! Cody (636)290-1423